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o scale model buildings

These low-relief background buildings use less space.

o scale building models

All buildings available in OO, HO, and N scale HERE 

model railway builings in O scale

Available individually below

meat shop o scale

Buy $14.95

bakery o scale

Buy $14.95

fish market o scale

Buy $12.95

antiques shop o scale

Buy $14.95

fruit shop o scale

Buy $14.95

barbers shop o scale

Buy $12.95

warehouse building o scale

Buy $14.95

garage o scale

Buy $12.95

office o scale warehouse

Buy $14.95

gray o scale warehouse

Buy $12.95

brick building o scale

Buy $9.95

apartment o scale

Buy $9.95

  • All O scale model buildings featured on this website are delivered by download very quickly after you purchase. There is no waiting! No shipping to pay!
  • The buildings are "photo-realistic" in style so look more real than plastic or painted structures.
  • The download page gives you the choice to download the PDF files in A4 size (letter size), and/or A3 size (tabloid size). You don't pay any extra for both options. Print A4 on your home printer (the joins are almost invisible), or print full size (no joins) by taking the file into your local fast copy print shop. The files are small so will easily fit on a removal USB memory stick.
  • We recommended constructing the O scale model buildings using foam board, corflute, plywood, or cardboard (materials not included). Corflute and foam is the most popular option with modelers, because it is SUPER STRONG, CHEAP TO BUY IN A BIG SHEET and is EASILY CUT WITH AN X-ACTO KNIFE!
  • The corflute (or other material) is then cut to the required shape (using a sharp craft knife). The printed design is then glued to the corflute taking care to remove air pockets (roll it with a bottle, rolling pin, or metal ruler).
  • The front, sides and roof can then be glued together using the flaps that come with the plans. Clothes pins (pegs) are ideal for securing parts together while they dry. Clear glue, a glue stick, or spray-on adhesive are all suitable.
  • All designs on this website have a 60-day, money-back guarantee.

 Buy Special 6 Shop Deal (Save 65%)         Buy Special 6 Warehouse Deal (Save 60%)

BEST BUY - Shop Deal and Warehouse Deal

How to Make Low Cost Real Looking
Background Buildings for a Model Railroad Backdrop

Article from hobbyist Kevin C

Along the back of the layout there may not be much room to put in a complete building. Some use it as an industrial area or a railroad station with a town on a back drop glued to the wall giving the viewer the impression that the layout continues into the distance. However just painting the scene on the wall does not really give it the 3D effect and it always looks flat, so to overcome this, using low profile buildings does give the viewer the desired 3D effect.

On my layout there is a flat top hill against the wall behind the station and I wanted to put in a plastic model of a hotel, but I did not have room for the complete model so I cut it down on the sides so that it was now about 3/4 inch thick and it fitted perfectly on the hill overlooking the station. Of course you don't have to go the extreme of half destroying a perfectly good model.

Amongst the model buildings that I downloaded there were some low relief buildings as an industrial area, a warehouse area, some shops and houses. These are made of cardboard or you can use foam core board which will make the building a lot stronger.

How to strengthen railroad buildings

This time I used Foam core board like that used on real estate signs. This is easy to use and assemble and can be glued with PVA glue but it will take longer for the glue to dry. Clear glue ($1 - $2 a tube) is much quicker drying and dry very strong.

First off I had very limited space and cut the profile down to half the printed size as I need to have a road way in front of the shops on the top of the hill. I glued the printed design to thin card except I carefully removed each edge wall except the ones at each end.

After gluing the fronts on and matching them, I cut the foam board to size and glued the fronts in position and left it to dry. I cut the pieces of the building edges and glued them in position where the building was taller than the side of the next shop and then glued the roof sections on. All this took awhile as we waited for the glue to dry, but once done we had a good strong building.

The good thing about building like this is that you can print out another copy if you make a mistake, whereas if you make a mistake with a plastic building you either live with it or fork out to buy another model.

I glued in a piece of 9mm MDF on the inside of the building to add additional strength. I left this to dry with weights on top (I used water bottles filled with water) and this worked well. Now the building is ready to put in place on the layout. By gluing it to the wall and I formed a road in front of the buildings I then put people in place and had them looking in the shop windows and walking along the footpath. I added a couple of parked vehicles to complete the scene.

How to make a loading dock

If you choose to use the commercial warehouse low profile building you could add loading docks and railroad sidings so that boxcars can be parked there along with workers loading and unloading also trucks bringing in supplies etc.

With the use of balsa wood sheet you can fill in between the tracks so vehicles can be added to the scene. The balsa wood once cut to size and sanded to less than 2mm and by painting and adding earth colored scatter material and using weathering techniques to add oil stain between the rails is glued in place. For those using inches (4mm = 0.16" = 4 / 25"). I use 4 mm MDF in the larger space between the tracks with a rebated edge to cover over the ties (sleepers) at the edge of the track. Whether you are using steam or diesel engines the oil stain would be the same to add realism.

model railroad track profile

On the second build I decided to make up the industrial area and I used 20mm MDF and marked out the roof line and angles after allowing sufficient board for the entire project. I cut the angles for the roof sections by setting my jigsaw to the correct angle and carefully cut out the shape. I clamped a straight edge to the MDF so that the saw would cut in a dead straight line, moving the straight edge to correspond with the different roof heights.

Then after sanding smooth I was able to glue the printout directly to the MDF and on one warehouse I cut out the door size in the MDF and cut a grove on each side of the door opening with a small hand saw and cut a turn at the top with my Dremel rotary tool to allow the door to bend at the top to represent the open door.

I printed a second page with the door on it to a larger scale and then glued to cardboard. The door was cut to size to fit in the groove and glued in place, and cut the excess from the top so that the MDF would still mount to the wall. I will paint the wall to represent the inside of the warehouse and paint different freight on pallets spaced around the inside walls. I glued a figure to look as though he was directing a truck in the doorway and placed a flat deck truck in the doorway with more freight on its deck that would be unloaded.